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Post by dai9fxey on Feb 18, 2009 22:17:01 GMT 1
There's nothing wrong with being "fussy" LJ. It only becomes a problem when progress gets slowed down as i've found to my cost.
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Feb 26, 2009 22:23:02 GMT 1
just realized i forgot to post the pics of the engine steadies being made (sorry for the low quality mobile pics) as shown before the bush mounts being made mounting plate, holes spotted to bolt to gearbox and then steady been fabricated ( only tacked together in photo) next pic shows it fitted or at least in place to ensure correct alignment etc before the U shape bracket is welded to frame the other side is pretty much the same just with different shaped plate. the steadies for the rear will be much bigger as theres more room and hopefully will give more strength
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Post by dai9fxey on Feb 26, 2009 23:43:17 GMT 1
Impressive fettling LJ.
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Feb 26, 2009 23:56:03 GMT 1
Impressive fettling LJ. thanks, i much prefer this fabricating etc its much better than that body work lark, its not so easy to blow holes in 3mm steel ;D
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 2, 2009 20:47:21 GMT 1
i made a start on the front cross member of the frame today and god is it a tight fit. theres currently 1.5mm between the frame and the body and 2mm between the frame and exhaust manifold the frame to body clerance is fine as it doesnt move but the 2mm between the manifold and frame is to small as the engine can move up to 5mm so my next challange is to buy a manifold from a 1.8 as its made of tube rather than cast and chop a few mm out of it to move it closer to the engine to create clerance pics to follow
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 2, 2009 20:58:34 GMT 1
And there's us Mini owners thinking the A series engine was a tight fit. Sounds complicated LJ.
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Post by jjitaljob on Mar 3, 2009 20:56:05 GMT 1
i put one of these engines in a clubman and that was tight on the exhaust. good though not having to be too fussy on a jalopy. they run really well with throttle bodies.
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 4, 2009 22:41:52 GMT 1
well after a bit of magic ( well ok tilting the engine slightly) i managed to create a cross member that allows clearance on the standard manifold ;D so I've now been able to trial fit the engine with manifold fitted and trim the body work to match close up pic forgot to take a pic of the crossmember before fitting engine so i'll take one when its out next also you can see where I've been playing with possible alternator positions, in pretty happy with it going there even tho its very tight but it does mean i can use a standard length belt and not worry about finding a large one and using idler pulleys etc. one more pic to give a better idea of the inlet manifold size and the cutting of the bulkhead to allow fitment so next on job on the list is a alternator bracket then measuring up and getting a custom rad built
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 4, 2009 22:56:04 GMT 1
Is there any room for a rad in that space LJ.
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 4, 2009 23:33:54 GMT 1
only one way to find out ;D
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Post by coedy on Mar 5, 2009 0:55:55 GMT 1
i seem to remember a mini in one of the mags having the radiator fitted under the boot floor with the spare wheel well removed and flattened off. kept the engine bay clutter free (within reason) and worked well enough. had a mesh guard over it to stop stones as well.
think that was on a Kseries conversion mind...
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 5, 2009 15:14:58 GMT 1
i seem to remember a mini in one of the mags having the radiator fitted under the boot floor with the spare wheel well removed and flattened off. kept the engine bay clutter free (within reason) and worked well enough. had a mesh guard over it to stop stones as well. think that was on a Kseries conversion mind... yeah i've seen a few like that, one was on a mini with a VW polo engine fitted. i dont think i can risk it due to where i live, it would get punctured as soon as i leave the drive lol
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Post by jjitaljob on Mar 5, 2009 18:43:33 GMT 1
you see the rads usually mounted in front of the gearbox. think they are the 1.4 honda rads. nice and slim and not very wide. worth a go?
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 5, 2009 20:44:36 GMT 1
yeah their the same as the 1.6 half rad which I've got but is to large, I'll be doing some CAD design soon which i can take to few local radiator company's to get a price on being built. on that note any one know of any radiator company's?
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exuptoy
1330cc
1980 Rebuild project and 1969 Elf.
Posts: 924
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Post by exuptoy on Mar 6, 2009 0:27:00 GMT 1
Ricketts radiators in LLanelli and there is another that repairs bike rads. If you are stuck my m8 works in a bike shop in Swansea and he'll have the number but I can't phone him till I get off the rig next week.
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on Mar 6, 2009 20:38:38 GMT 1
as promised heres my CAD ( cardboard aided design ) ;D [rubbish quality yet again] from my calculations the core will be 25% smaller than the standard civic one, not sure if it will be up to the job i know companies claim the all alloy rads are 30% more efficient so in theory that would bring the the cooling ability back up to standard. might have to look at fitting a second rad some where
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 6, 2009 20:48:22 GMT 1
Hmmm. Owens Motorsport Fabrications make bespoke alloy rads. Give Endaf a ring. he's based near Cross Hands. Cool C.A.D. mock up though.
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Post by thereddwarf on Mar 6, 2009 21:35:55 GMT 1
Byron said to try fast rads...he thinks they are in cardiff
ju
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Post by coedy on Mar 6, 2009 21:50:04 GMT 1
as for another radiator.... heater matrix tucked up under the subframe? (rear) no chance of that catching on anything as you could mount it up Within the actual subframe...
but then again doubt a heater matrix would help =/
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Post by jjitaljob on Mar 6, 2009 22:06:56 GMT 1
olympic radiators are really good
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