Post by k3rry on Oct 19, 2007 17:13:22 GMT 1
1. Safety first, as you will be removing parts of the engine that contain fuel you will need to disconnect the battery and not use any naked flames or smoke cigarettes.
2. Remove the air filter from the top of the carburettor by undoing the wing nuts.
3. Undo the clamp holding the fuel hose on to the carburettor and either clamp it off or insert a bolt into the end to stop any fuel from leaking out.
4. Release the choke cable and accelerator cables from the carb and position them out of the way.
5. You can then undo the nuts holding the carb onto the manifold. Also remove the spacer block and abutment plate from the manifold.
6. If you have a freeflow manifold fitted, undo the clamp joining it to the exhaust pipe. If you have a standard exhaust you will need to undo the clamp behind the engine where it joins to the downpipe.
7. Undo the nuts where the manifold joins to the cylinder head.
8. Then, either remove one (1) piece exhaust/inlet manifold, or the two (2) separate manifolds from the cylinder head.
9. You'll need to drain the coolant to a level that is below the top of the cylinder block. The easiest way to do this is by undoing the clamp that holds the bottom hose to the water pump and remove the hose. Collect as much of the fluid as possible with a container underneath, and dispose of it correctly.
10. Undo the clamps holding the top hose to the radiator and remove the hose completely.
11. Undo the nuts and bolts securing the top radiator bracket to the thermostat housing and the radiator and remove it completely.
12. As it will be a good practice to renew all of the gaskets on the cylinder head, remove the heater tap by undoing the nuts or bolts and disconnect it from the heater hose.
13. Firstly number the plug leads with bits of tape, then disconnect them from the spark plugs.
14. Undo the two (2) nuts holding the rocker cover down.
15. Then remove the rocker cover from the engine. You might have to give the cover a light tap to break the seal.
16. Then loosen the adjuster screws all the way out.
17. Undo the nuts holding down the cylinder head.
18. Then remove the rocker shaft assembly followed by the push rod ends. Make sure you lift and 'twizzle' them a little before retracting all the way to avoid lifting the cam followers out of their bores. A pain to resolve.
19. Then you can lift off the cylinder head to reveal the head gasket and the cylinders.
20. Using a new blade, carefully scrape away any remains of the old gasket along with any rust build up on the surface of the block. When you have done this either use some petrol or cellulose thinners to wipe clean the surface ready for the new gasket. Remove any debris from the piston crowns/cylinders.
21. You will find that the new gasket will have stamped in it 'top' and 'front', the front of the engine being the end with the water pump on it. Carefully slide it over the head bolts, and lower it on to the block. Do not use any jointing compounds inbetween the gasket and the block/head.
22. Fit a new bypass hose onto the water pump ready to fit on to the head.
23. Carefully lower the head over the studs, then put the rocker gear back on to the head and screw on the head nuts. Look at the diagram in a workshop manual for the correct sequence to do the nuts up, and a bit at a time go around the nuts until they are all done up to the specified torque.
24. It is good practice to replace the thermostat when you replace the head gasket, as this could have been the cause of the failure.
25. It is then a case of refitting all of the components you have taken off the engine - remembering to clean off all of the old gaskets and fitting new. Do not fit the rocker cover, or the spark plugs.
26. Jack one (1) of the wheels up and engage second gear to enable you to turn the engine over so that you can set the tappet clearances. All that is left to do then is refit the spark plugs and top the coolant back up again.
2. Remove the air filter from the top of the carburettor by undoing the wing nuts.
3. Undo the clamp holding the fuel hose on to the carburettor and either clamp it off or insert a bolt into the end to stop any fuel from leaking out.
4. Release the choke cable and accelerator cables from the carb and position them out of the way.
5. You can then undo the nuts holding the carb onto the manifold. Also remove the spacer block and abutment plate from the manifold.
6. If you have a freeflow manifold fitted, undo the clamp joining it to the exhaust pipe. If you have a standard exhaust you will need to undo the clamp behind the engine where it joins to the downpipe.
7. Undo the nuts where the manifold joins to the cylinder head.
8. Then, either remove one (1) piece exhaust/inlet manifold, or the two (2) separate manifolds from the cylinder head.
9. You'll need to drain the coolant to a level that is below the top of the cylinder block. The easiest way to do this is by undoing the clamp that holds the bottom hose to the water pump and remove the hose. Collect as much of the fluid as possible with a container underneath, and dispose of it correctly.
10. Undo the clamps holding the top hose to the radiator and remove the hose completely.
11. Undo the nuts and bolts securing the top radiator bracket to the thermostat housing and the radiator and remove it completely.
12. As it will be a good practice to renew all of the gaskets on the cylinder head, remove the heater tap by undoing the nuts or bolts and disconnect it from the heater hose.
13. Firstly number the plug leads with bits of tape, then disconnect them from the spark plugs.
14. Undo the two (2) nuts holding the rocker cover down.
15. Then remove the rocker cover from the engine. You might have to give the cover a light tap to break the seal.
16. Then loosen the adjuster screws all the way out.
17. Undo the nuts holding down the cylinder head.
18. Then remove the rocker shaft assembly followed by the push rod ends. Make sure you lift and 'twizzle' them a little before retracting all the way to avoid lifting the cam followers out of their bores. A pain to resolve.
19. Then you can lift off the cylinder head to reveal the head gasket and the cylinders.
20. Using a new blade, carefully scrape away any remains of the old gasket along with any rust build up on the surface of the block. When you have done this either use some petrol or cellulose thinners to wipe clean the surface ready for the new gasket. Remove any debris from the piston crowns/cylinders.
21. You will find that the new gasket will have stamped in it 'top' and 'front', the front of the engine being the end with the water pump on it. Carefully slide it over the head bolts, and lower it on to the block. Do not use any jointing compounds inbetween the gasket and the block/head.
22. Fit a new bypass hose onto the water pump ready to fit on to the head.
23. Carefully lower the head over the studs, then put the rocker gear back on to the head and screw on the head nuts. Look at the diagram in a workshop manual for the correct sequence to do the nuts up, and a bit at a time go around the nuts until they are all done up to the specified torque.
24. It is good practice to replace the thermostat when you replace the head gasket, as this could have been the cause of the failure.
25. It is then a case of refitting all of the components you have taken off the engine - remembering to clean off all of the old gaskets and fitting new. Do not fit the rocker cover, or the spark plugs.
26. Jack one (1) of the wheels up and engage second gear to enable you to turn the engine over so that you can set the tappet clearances. All that is left to do then is refit the spark plugs and top the coolant back up again.
