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Post by Dog on Mar 8, 2008 20:37:55 GMT 1
I am just sitting them at TDC atm, I am trying to find out what "tooth" it is on the timing cover for the firing stroke...
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 8, 2008 22:06:31 GMT 1
It may be Easier to check the timing marks through the inspection plate on the flywheel cover . You'll need a mirror for this job. You'll need to know the BTDC figure, then line the marks on the flywheel with the pointer in the Inspection hole. Whip the distributor cap off, loosen the clamp, then swing the distributor over, (by hand) clockwise, then slowly move it back anti-clockwise until the points just open. Assuming that the rotor arm is pointing towards the No1 post (for spark plug No 1) on the dizzy cap, Nip the dizzy clamp up again, chuck the cap back on and fire the engine up.  |
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Post by Dog on Mar 8, 2008 22:13:24 GMT 1
How do I work out the BTDC figure?
Whats BTDC?
Sorry....
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 8, 2008 22:19:51 GMT 1
How do I work out the BTDC figure? Whats BTDC? Sorry....[/quote Before Top Dead Centre.. For the 1275 S assume BTDC to be roughly 3 degrees as a ballpark figure.  |
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Post by Dog on Mar 8, 2008 22:53:19 GMT 1
ahhh crap, this is going to get worse now I can see it...
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Post by Dog on Mar 8, 2008 23:00:00 GMT 1
Well i am using a SW5-07... dailed in at 107 degrees...
the specs I can find are these:
Checking height: 0.016" @ lobe
Timing: (Intake): 10/52 (Exhaust): 47/15
Nominal lobe lift: (Intake): 0.286" (Exhaust): 0.286"
Duration (Intake): 242 (Exhaust): 242
Lobe centre angle (Intake): 111 (Exhaust): 106
Lobe separation angle: 108.5
Lift on overlap: 0.0385"
Any ideas what BTDC would be?
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 8, 2008 23:22:18 GMT 1
I reckon 3 degrees BTDC should be a good starting point.
That figure is based on a static reading.
I've checked my Cam chart and your cam is very close to the spec of the cooperS cam AEG 510, so 3 degrees Isn't far off the mark.
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 1:08:54 GMT 1
How do I know when I am at 3 degrees?
Remember I have a aftermarket flywheel...
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 9, 2008 8:27:38 GMT 1
The flywheel should have timing marks stamped on it.
The biggest mark should be TDC. (Top dead Centre)
the next mark closest to the big mark should be 5 Degrees BTDC.
The next mark should be 10 Degrees BTDC. and so on.
So if you line the indicator in the inspection hole up with mark on the flywheel somewhere betwwen the BIG MARK and MARK closest to it you Won't be far off 3 degrees BTDC.
Then set your Dizzy as per previous post.
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 16:26:30 GMT 1
Dai I love you...  Would seem, all my HIF44's are duff  as thats running on a HIF38... |
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Post by dai9fxey on Mar 9, 2008 16:41:03 GMT 1
;D ;D  |
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Post by jc1380s on Mar 9, 2008 16:46:53 GMT 1
Nice one Dog!  Now you have it running sweet on the 38 should be simple job to swap back to the 44!  Surely they can't ALL be Donald Ducked!!!!!!!  jc |
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 16:49:58 GMT 1
well I've tried them all! none worked, soon as I fitted the 38... bang... it started. Is it easy to "restore" a HIF44? or would it be better to buy a brand new spanker? The video should work now |
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Post by jc1380s on Mar 9, 2008 17:03:33 GMT 1
I have run a 44 on my 1380S since removing the twin 1.1/2" carbs because of balancing problems and excessive thirst!
Once set up and tweeked to give the correct mix it needs no more fettling, just sits there fat dumb and happy.
Can't see why all your 44's are duff!
Ultimate answer would be to buy a brand new one but that would still have to be set up on the car!
Are you sure the problems that you had with the 44 were not due to timing and throttle cable being pulled tight?
jc
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 19:13:22 GMT 1
Oh I know it'll need setting up, don't get me wrong there.
But I am just one of those people where if its not right, its not right, and I need to solve it.
I am sure that the cable on the HIF44's was loose, I think once I tryed it with no cables at all....
I too, have gone from twin 1.5" HS4's, due to singles being so much simpler..........
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Post by jc1380s on Mar 9, 2008 19:20:40 GMT 1
If you are happy with the 38 Dog you may as well stick with it. If nothing else it will give you better mpg!
Think you could flush the oil cooler out and try that again as a 1380 can be a bit harsh on the slippery black stuff!
90 psi seems a little high to me as my engine runs (when it does run!!!) at 60-70 psi when its hot and has done ever since the engine conversion was first done by Coopers Garages
jc
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 19:24:08 GMT 1
Yeh its all brand new... new spring, and ballbearing conversion, the spring may want a few rings trimming off... either that, or I'll replace it with an older one I have here....
Will a 38 be ok on such a big engine? I mean, is it going to run tooo lean?
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Post by jc1380s on Mar 9, 2008 19:29:01 GMT 1
I've never run with a 1.5" single carb so can't say but Coopers only offered the 2 options on their 1380 conversions -
Twin 1.5 's or a single 1.75.
I would run it with the 38 for a while and see what you feel about it.
Think you would see more power from a 1.75 once you solve the set up / fault problems.
jc
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Post by Dog on Mar 9, 2008 19:35:36 GMT 1
yeh no doubt. I know that HIF38's came out on 1275's and it was a common thing to use a HIF44 to upgrade the power...
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as thats running on a HIF38...
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