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Post by Phil J on May 11, 2009 22:42:01 GMT 1
I am thinking of fitting a flip front to my car, my welding skills are non existent, so Fiberglass sounds like the easier option, but after reading so many horror story's on bad fit I am really unsure  Does anyone know a supplier of Good fit fibre glass fronts? And also how hard would it be to make a steel flip front? Would it just be a case of lining it all up, clamping securely and then welding the panels together ? Would it be safe to clamp it together then remove from car to weld ? Lots of question marks in there so will wait for some answers before I move onto the next batch  |
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Post by coedy on May 11, 2009 22:47:30 GMT 1
*waits for LJonez....*  He's making a steel flip front now btw, so he could bring good and bad news  |
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Post by Phil J on May 11, 2009 22:48:53 GMT 1
;D ;D ;D ;D
Love the Gif ;D ;D
Corina giving me a funny look wondering why i started laughing out loud ;D ;D ;D
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on May 11, 2009 22:50:59 GMT 1
some one say my name ;D
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on May 11, 2009 23:15:51 GMT 1
its all personal choice really, a removable front does make working on the mini much easier. altho on my car i think it only came off once and that was for some extra trimming  i had two fronts from abs and the fit is questionable, the first one ( now on BOB) went on OK and fitted quiet well to be fair but there was a clearance issue with the o/s wheel so abs changed it for a second one which had no clearance problems but the fit wasn't as good. unhappy with the fit I'm now making a steel one as coedy said. its not welded yet but with it just clamped up and using non genuine panels the fit seems allot better. don't worry about welding skills the front end is all spot welded on so all u need to do is beg/borrow/steal or even rent a spot welder for the day, clamp it all up and stop weld it all but saying that you could just keep it as a solid front and not worry about brace bars etc. the BIG advantage of f/g is it don't rust, if i had a f/g front that fitted well id be happy |
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Post by thereddwarf on May 11, 2009 23:21:32 GMT 1
i can take some pics of how my front is welded up, if you need some ideas.....
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Post by Phil J on May 12, 2009 6:16:52 GMT 1
Cheers Ju, That would be great |
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TAFF
1440cc
What was the Best thing BEFORE sliced bread ?
Posts: 2,930
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Post by TAFF on May 12, 2009 6:36:17 GMT 1
I had a F/G flip front on one of my 80's mini's.
was a good fit and great for working on the engine...
But i must have gone through dozens of lights as I kept forgetting to lock it down...
The end of Phil's road still has the two dents where dozens of lights where slammed into the floor... lol
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Post by Phil J on May 12, 2009 6:48:30 GMT 1
;D yeah I remember you changing them a few times a week |
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Post by Phil J on May 12, 2009 14:26:51 GMT 1
Ok, I have read up more reviews and if I am going for a flip front then it will be a steel one Have you built yours up yet Ljonez? A how to guide would be invaluable ;D
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on May 12, 2009 15:19:24 GMT 1
Ok, I have read up more reviews and if I am going for a flip front then it will be a steel one Have you built yours up yet Ljonez? A how to guide would be invaluable ;D it should have been done by now but a bad case of bird flu has stopped me. its all clamped up etc  just needs some fine fettling before its welded. a guide could be possible, i will have to remember to take some pics etc could possibly include A panel replacement not sure if i took photos of it coming off  don't forget about brace bars you can pick them up pretty cheap, when it came to mine i was not happy with the way they all bolt to the inner wing, its only 1mm single skin and doesn't really have any strength. also i have a need to over engineer every thing so i built my own which bolt to the shock absorber mount via a piece of 3.5mm steel plate   i had to replace the shock mount bolts for longer ones so i fitted some high tensile ones whist i was at it along with high tensile bolts where the bars join the sub frame. i can safely say there is no movement in my sub frame ;D |
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Post by Phil J on May 12, 2009 15:44:02 GMT 1
I was thinking the steel where the brace bars fit wasnt very strong too, Like your idea, just dont put a patent on it yet |
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Post by welshjosh on May 12, 2009 19:40:40 GMT 1
Phill just get someone else to do it |
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Post by boycie101 on May 12, 2009 20:17:07 GMT 1
with our brace bars for medusa + bob they on the inside of inner wings supported by part of the original structure + never had any issues with it like that + no probs with m.o.t etc
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ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
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Post by ljonez on May 12, 2009 21:05:11 GMT 1
yeah i know its they way its done but i just wernt happy with it, as i said i like to over engineer things ;D
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phill54
1170cc
70 mph in second gear come on baby[F4:phillip401]
Posts: 373
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Post by phill54 on Jul 25, 2010 19:10:39 GMT 1
hey all i have just made a steel flip front i had 2 fiberglass one and both fitted really bad i also made a front brace bars that connected to my cage and front subframe something think like this ![]() sorry dont now how to post photos |
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