Drive shafts

[danielc]

Never had to think about these before as all of my previous Minis already had them. Now I need some I realise all I know is that I need two and they need to be different lengths!

So I need advice, are all drive shafts the same, do I need specialist tools, is it an easy job, what other fittings will I need...etc.

The car is from 1973, but may well not be original. Wheel hubs (swivel hubs?) are complete and have drum brakes (for the moment at least) the engine is believed to be from a 1275GT, no idea about the gearbox internals etc.

So, what do I need and what do I need to know please? Thanks.

[dai9fxey]

Without looking at the gearbox and knowing it's part number it's difficult to say what driveshafts you need.
If the engine and gearbox is of 1973 vintage then you will need drive shafts to suit..
There are 4 types of driveshaft, 5 if you include Cooper S.
From roughly1976 the inner drive shaft coupling was standardised across the range whereas up until then inner driveshaft couplings were either Hardy Spicer or Rubber / Nylon couplings.. Only the Cooper S or Automatic Minis had the Hardy Spicer couplings.
To check the part number of the gearbox look for an embossed number behind the oil filter.
It should start 22G or Dam.

[phill54]

the shalfts i have pal cam off a 1973 mini they are complete with hubs ,and drums u are welcome to try them too see if they fit

[danielc]

Embossed number in it's entirety:

A/BZ.5
B.C.&M22G1832

As far as I can tell in the rain with a torch.

So what do the magic numbers mean?

[dai9fxey]

22G 1832 should be a Rod change with a small idler bearing housing. 4 synchro box.
I'll have to double check to see what diff outputs are on those boxes.

[danielc]

Thanks.
Yes it is a rod change, which is one of my problems as the shell has the hole for the other type, which means there is nothing to bolt the gear lever bit to, hence the current bungy rope. If I could figure out how to post pictures I could show you, definitely square peg, round hole, or maybe visa versa.

[danielc]

www.mini-mayfair.net/daten/GearboxNumbers.pdf[\url] if I am reading it right says pot joints, so I am guessing that Phils should plug straight in?

Is there a rubber gaiter at the gearbox end of the shaft, or anything else that I might need that Phil might not have? Or have you Phil?

I guess the basic procedure is pull off the existing hub assemblies, poke in the driveshaft, lube in some way, rejoin the hub assemblies. No need to pull the engine at all. Does this mean I finally get to find out what a ball joint splitter does?

[dai9fxey]

Yes, there should be a rubber gaiter over the pot joint.
Take your old hub assemblies off then straight swap with what phill has to offer.
Not used a ball joint splitter before.? Is it the fork type or the screw type.?
The fork type is just brute force, but works effectively if you can get enough room to smack the end with a large persuader without smashing your knuckles on some adjoining bodywork.

[gavinhendy]

Got a splitter here if u need a lend

[phill54]

I have a shell here that I'm putting as a rwd I could try and get the
Get changer mounting bracket off there so u can weld it onto your shell if
That helps

[danielc]

Hi,

Thanks gav, but I'll probably buy one - I guess the screw type is the preferred option? Appreciate the offer though.

Phil - yes that would be great. I am trying to figure out how to upload photos (they are on picasaweb) - I have one of the gear lever / big hole that nicely shows the problem. I just can't figure it out, driving me crazy!

[danielc]

Round peg - square hole (and rust). Note the red bungy rope holding the whole assembly in place.