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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:33:07 GMT 1
Thanks to some help I can now share photos of my Mini, watch out for the rust! This one shows the wooden brake blocks and the 10 and 12 inch wheels.
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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:34:28 GMT 1
This one shows the carpet engine steady and the blue string engine mounts.
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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:39:28 GMT 1
Centre mounted fuel tank and boot mounted exhaust manifold.
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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:40:24 GMT 1
Brake servo in passenger footwell.
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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:42:05 GMT 1
Custom dashboard, invisible steering wheel.
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Post by danielc on Sept 13, 2011 20:43:50 GMT 1
Seats - at least these seem to work and aren't too rusty, just a bit damp.
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Post by dai9fxey on Sept 13, 2011 23:01:36 GMT 1
Aye Aye. A previous owner has made an attempt at doing some race / rally mods. The servo under the dash was a popular application because of the cramped engine bay. Nothing wrong with the rope engine steady. ;D The zorst manifold in the boot has got me stumped though. My guess is you have a round exhaust tunnel rather than a "square" one which is why fitting the rod change is proving awkward.
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Post by danielc on Sept 14, 2011 12:39:53 GMT 1
Yes, the car has an interesting past. She was registered in 1973. At some point prior to 1989 she was prepared and used for rallying, including a 1380 engine, Weber carb, strengthened shell, roll cage, straight cut gears and LSD. In 1989 she was bought by a friend of mine who used her on the road for a bit, then parked her in his garage planning to restore her. I bought her in 1998 and she sat in my garage for a year or so. I then lent her to a friend who got her going again and did some more rallying in her (after putting in a new cage, changing the engine and some other bits and pieces). She then sat in his garage for several years as he raced his other cars. Arrived back with me about a month ago - now sitting on the drive rusting quietly to herself. Short term plan is to just get everything working and to get an MOT. Longer term plan is to use her for hillclimbing and sprinting. Yes I do indeed have a round tunnel - never really noticed there were different types before. Yes, that would indeed appear to be the root of the problem regarding the rod change, as we can see here.
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Post by danielc on Sept 14, 2011 12:43:17 GMT 1
I believe the servo is from a Cooper S any one know how to tell? This might be important when it comes to racing her as I plan to go historic.
On the other hand, I might just get rid of it I can't see that it is really necessary and removing it will save a bit of weight and complexity. Any views?
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Post by dai9fxey on Sept 14, 2011 19:45:45 GMT 1
It's the type of servo fitted to MK3 S's and countless other cars either as standard or aftermarket fitment.. The MK1 and 2 S servos are a bit smaller in size. You seem to have yourself a MK2 MK3 crossover shell.. A MK2 floorpan in a mk3 shell.. The floor was changed to a square tunnel type when they introduced the Rod Change gearbox later in 73. Easiest way forward is to find a scrap floorpan and cut out the area around the gearstick and transplant into yours. The other option is to fabricate a section from scratch and weld it into place.
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phill54
1170cc
70 mph in second gear come on baby[F4:phillip401]
Posts: 373
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Post by phill54 on Sept 14, 2011 20:25:21 GMT 1
dai would the tunnel out of my clubman be the same its a 1983 i think
looks like it had a webber carb on it too i now where there is one of them for 150 with manifold ;D
going to be a good project good luck with her
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Post by danielc on Sept 14, 2011 21:05:29 GMT 1
Yes, did have a weber, hence the air box in the front bulkhead. In fact it is probably somewhere in my mates garage, I may ask him if he is using it. Haven't got £150 for another one right now unfortunately. Will also need to check the regs to see if I allowed to.
If your tunnel will fit Phil, then yes please! Anyone who can weld it in for me?
If the servo isn't an interesting one then I might be even more inclined to remove it, as I understand it it doesn't make the brakes any more effective, just reduces the effort required - is that about right?
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Post by dai9fxey on Sept 14, 2011 21:35:16 GMT 1
Yep, a 1983 tunnel will suit. You are right about the servo daniel, ie: less pedal effort.
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phill54
1170cc
70 mph in second gear come on baby[F4:phillip401]
Posts: 373
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Post by phill54 on Sept 15, 2011 8:11:23 GMT 1
daniel i could weld it if u got a welder down there will be fast enough
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Post by danielc on Sept 15, 2011 20:10:45 GMT 1
Thanks for the offer Phil, but no welding gear here I'm afraid, probably just as well otherwise I'd do myself a damage.
If you are cutting the tunnel in any case would be great if you could cut a big enough piece for me to weld in at some point.
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