|
|
Post by dai9fxey on Mar 23, 2008 20:18:30 GMT 1
The crank should spin freely with no "tight Spots" at all. Check the Thou sizes on the back of the thrusts when you take them out. I haven't got my BOOk to hand at the moment to check for the correct clearance.  |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 23, 2008 20:58:10 GMT 1
Well the ones I took out, (from Minisport) had no markings on the backs... the new ones I have, have "std" stamped into them....
Do you think 4 is going to be enough for my spec? Considering I am using a aftermarket pressure plate...
|
|
|
|
Post by dai9fxey on Mar 23, 2008 21:21:29 GMT 1
I used Vanderwell Thrusts on my rally motor which had an Ultralight Flywheel and Orange Diaphragm. No problems, EVER.  |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 23, 2008 21:23:43 GMT 1
What was your end float Dai?
I am using AE thursts, these are genuine, as they were still stickered up in MG/Rover stickers lol
|
|
|
|
Post by superluce on Mar 23, 2008 21:27:18 GMT 1
How do you get away with having your tyres so far outside your arches?
|
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 23, 2008 21:32:55 GMT 1
How do you get away with having your tyres so far outside your arches? lol I don't. I fitted those just to get me to show, and got bored fitting my arches, so if I saw a copper, I went a different diarection... |
|
|
|
Post by dai9fxey on Mar 23, 2008 22:04:31 GMT 1
What was your end float Dai? I am using AE thursts, these are genuine, as they were still stickered up in MG/Rover stickers lol It's Over 20 years since i built that motor and I'm suffering from senility.  But as LJ say's 4 thou sounds about right. |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 23, 2008 22:21:49 GMT 1
Ta fellas.
I hjope Helfruads sells DTI's....
|
|
ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
|
Post by ljonez on Mar 26, 2008 20:27:18 GMT 1
did you manage to get a dti?
|
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 26, 2008 21:35:46 GMT 1
Yeh ordered one tonight... Fingers crossed it'll be here by the weekend, if it is, then i can rebuild the engine, and get it back in by Sunday  |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 26, 2008 23:49:33 GMT 1
I finally bought myself a DTI £24 off eBay, should be good enough for what I want  Anyways, end float needs to be 0.004" - 0.005" I am going for 0.005". To adjust the gap, you need to get yourself a flat surface, (I am using a old Mini quaterlight window), some 800grit wet n dry, used with WD40 or Duck oil, and carefully just rub one of the faces (the back pref) and keep checking the size of the thurst, this way, you are litrally, taking shaves off, which is what u want. What I can see went wrong, is I had not adjusted the stop nut correctly, thus letting the clutch bind more than it needed, putting extra pressure on the thrusts. Meaning they were being eatten very quickly, this meaning I had a slight build up of waste thrust on the corner of one thrust, making the End float smaller, in turn making the engine bind up. So this time round, I have bought myself some genuine AE thurst washers, a DTI gauge that does 0.001" incraments. I am going to build the short engine up, and see what I have without touching the thrusts, if its not reading what I want it to read, then I'll tweak the thursts until I get the reading I want. Once this is done, I'll rebuild the enigne, time the new PH3 cam in, and while the enigne is out, do my tappets too, as I have now gone down from 1.5:1 rockers to 1.3:1 Cooper S Forged Rockers. Once this is all complete I need to change one engine mount as one of the captive nuts has threaded, I might also ttreat the engine to another coat of paint too. Also, while the engine is out, I am going to fit a pre-pump fuel filter, and tea cut the engine bay a bit, seems the short 50miles I have done, and discoloured the paint a bit  Another thing I want to do it change the thermostat, to a 88degree, as I am currently running a 74degree, and the engine just wasn't even getting warm enough... all the worries that it'll overheat bit me a little lol Again, reassembale, moving a few things, altering a few things (mainly in the qiuest for tartness) and bobs your uncel, with a properly set clutch stop set, fa**y will be your aurt too |
|
ljonez
turbo
Built not bought
Posts: 3,734
|
Post by ljonez on Mar 27, 2008 0:05:34 GMT 1
dont forget to much end float will cause big end and bore wear
|
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 27, 2008 0:22:43 GMT 1
0.005" was recomended by Simon@Morspeed, so I'll go with his word.
|
|
|
|
Post by dai9fxey on Mar 27, 2008 20:41:43 GMT 1
0.005" was recomended by Simon@Morspeed, so I'll go with his word. Tidy. Did you measure the other thrusts too see if you had a mis-matched set Dog.?? |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 27, 2008 20:53:54 GMT 1
Yeh, one was 0.002" bigger, even after me almost distorying it... so that was the problem. I intend to correct my errors. Got a little surprise today too  For people that were wonding why I had my headling in out... I got this in return   Its not actually here just yet as hes still doing my door cards... which are being made on the same material... but with ghost flames..  Should look good with what I have in mind But for people that want to know, the people doing these for me is Retro Retrims |
|
|
|
Post by dai9fxey on Mar 27, 2008 20:58:42 GMT 1
Is the headlining some sort of suede material. 
|
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 27, 2008 21:01:25 GMT 1
Yeps, grey Suede |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Mar 30, 2008 21:09:53 GMT 1
I've been at it allllll day, well since 10am, its now 9pm, I think 9 hours building an engine is long enough lol :lol: anyways, went from this....  and alot of measuring, and acuratly dialing in the cam etc, new rockers, and adjusting tappets later, and I am left with this once again....  |
|
|
|
Post by Dog on Apr 1, 2008 23:03:51 GMT 1
Well, its back in...   Only things I need to fit, are rad, solinoid, earth strap, Speedo cable, wcooling plumbing... went to fit the fan belt, and it would seem, my altenater is fecked It won't turn So new alt coming my way.... |
|
|
|
Post by irishstick on Apr 1, 2008 23:11:54 GMT 1
jesus mate that was fast, all the best tho! ;D ;D ;D
|
|
